United kingdom Daily news: Scotland breaks: Hebrides heaven in wild Islay

Rabu, 04 Juli 2012

Scotland breaks: Hebrides heaven in wild Islay

Scotland breaks: Hebrides heaven in wild Islay

By Jenny Coad

PUBLISHED: 05:18 EST, 4 July 2012 | UPDATED: 05:18 EST, 4 July 2012

There are few places on earth where whisky is considered a suitable pre-race tipple.

Islay in the Scottish Hebrides is one.

This magical island, a 30-minute flight from Glasgow, is world famous for the flaming liquid. As soon as the plane touches down, we pour into Ardbeg on the south coast, a distillery renowned for its peaty flavour - and also sponsor of the annual half marathon.

Drams and delights: Islay is a location to warm the soul - especially with a glass of whisky in hand

Peat is part of Islay's selling point. The island is positively brimming with this dark, earthy matter that gives its whisky a distinctive smokiness. The peat is used in the drying kiln to flavour the malted barley, so when it comes out of the mash, the wash and the stills, it's well on its way to becoming something very tasty indeed. Whisky fans travel miles to see the stills in action.

There are eight distilleries on Islay. Two Americans in our BB, the very comfortable Kilmeney, are here to taste a 30-year-old Laphroaig (this is a bottle that retails for Â£600).

High-end whisky is new to me. As a student, I masked it with Coke (something I wouldn't dare admit here). And I associate it with my father having a cold - he believes it to be the only cure.

A wee dram is plenty for me, but I can understand the appeal. It cuts through your throat, and your troubles like nothing else.

It's the natural bottle to turn to on a cool autumn evening - but Islay isn't often scorching hot - and it works in summer, too. It's a superior ingredient in puddings, from the heart-sticking clootie dumpling, to the wonderfully creamy Cranachan (a sort of Scottish Eton mess), both of which will set you up nicely to explore this very pretty - and mythical - place.

There are only 3,000 people living on Islay, so you can easily lose sight of houses, humans, cars - there is no traffic and very little crime. Sheep and cows are a more likely obstacle. They line the road and roam about in it, too. On a drive to Loch Gruinart we trundle behind an enormous bounding hare. He's loping along at 10 mph.

There is more to see in sky and sea from gannets, geese and harriers (there are over 200 species of birds on the island) to seals, dolphins and otters. Bird-spotters will be in raptures.

As will lovers of seafood. Lobster, scallops, langoustine and oysters are all fi shed here. The restaurant at Charlotte Hotel, in Port Charlotte, serves delicious buttery food overlooking still, sleety water. You can retire to the living room for the obligatory dram and whisky infused fudge.

On the rocks: Islay has dramatic stretches of coastline

Despite the grey clouds, Islay is bright and fresh, rather than gloomy. The fields are full of colour from grasses to cow parsley and meadow flowers. And when the sun does come out, it's glorious with ribbons of blue and silver running through the sea and sky.

The air is so bristlingly clean, you feel robustly healthy simply by taking a few deep breaths.

The undulating racecourse is invigorating. This is a small race (so small, there's no real finishing line) of only 200 runners, but they are international and athletic. One local is listening to the bagpipes on his iPod - loudly; another's in a kilt. But there's no sign of the Irish rugby team we bumped into at Ardbeg. Perhaps the whisky sent them into a very deep sleep.

The island has been inhabited for centuries. And it feels like an old soul. There are markers to remind you just how long people have settled here. The Kildalton Cross, next to the now ruined Kildalton church, has stood on Islay for over 1,000 years. It dates from the second half of the 8th century and scenes carved upon it, such as the Virgin and Child, though weathered, are still visible.

Beneath it are coins from across the world. I'm not sure if it's the clean air, the cool waters, gentle scenery or that whisky, but to spend time on Islay is to be soothed to the core.