Rabu, 04 Juli 2012

Paris Couture Week 2012: Jean Paul Gaultier stuns with collection inspired by Pete Doherty

Paris Couture Week 2012: Jean Paul Gaultier stuns with collection inspired by Pete Doherty

  • The 60-year-old designer said he was 'bowled over' by the British musician after meeting him in Cannes
  • Resulting show was a theatrical, androgynous feast for the eyes
  • Gaultier sparked controversy with his last show after sending out Amy Winehouse lookalikes soon after her death

By Deborah Arthurs

PUBLISHED: 13:37 EST, 4 July 2012 | UPDATED: 14:40 EST, 4 July 2012

Jean Paul Gaultier is no stranger to pushing the boundaries. He sparked controversy with his last couture show after he sent out Amy Winehouse lookalikes in clothing similar to those the late singer used to wear just months after her death.

And with today's show, the French couturier proved that aged 60, he still knows how to push buttons. Gaultier chose as his muse the former drug addicted musician, Pete Doherty.

The fashion designer encountered Doherty during his stint as a Cannes Film Festival jury member this year.

Doherty made his acting debut as a 19th-century figure in a film that was screened at the Riviera event. The movie, 'Confession of a Child of the Century,' bowled Gaultier over. 'I said my god he is so seductive, a decadent dandy,' said the designer backstage. 'And that's my collection.'

So it was that this show, with its unlikely matinee idol as a muse, became a dandyesque tribute to the silver screen.

Andrej took to the catwalk in a gauzy evening gown that revealed his nipple Transgender model Andrej Pejic was the star turn of Jean Paul Gaultier's androgynous couture show this afternoon Star turn: Andre showcased the glittering designs perfectly

Androgynous 'femi-man' model Andrej Pejic was the star turn of Jean Paul Gaultier's androgynous couture show this afternoon

The result was a theatrical delight. Androgynous by design and by the virtue of the show's star turn, the so-called 'femi-man' model Andrej Pejic, who strode onto the catwalk wearing a gauzy black top that revealed his chest, it was pure Gaultier.

Nineteenth century top hats accompanied high taffeta collars, deconstructed texture-rich satin crepe waistcoats and a sea of black.

The black was broken up with explosions colour and bright fox fur, which provoked whoops of delight from the crowd.

Gaultier threw in other cinema references for good measure.

'The original idea I thought of doing Fritz Lang's Metropolis,' he said, and indeed, as if straight out of that 1927 science-fiction film, there was a grey metallic looking cape with golden lining. He had clearly done his cinema homework.

The shoulderless jumpsuit which completed the ensemble had the broken sheen of scrubbed metal, like the film's robot Mechanical Maria.

Art deco prints and the odd robotic conical bra only added to the graphic feel, while a projector beamed images onto one model's dress while scenes from old movies flashed behind her.

The piece de resistance came in the form of a science-fiction corset cage, that stood out from the model's body like a mechanised hourglass.

'I'm here because it's lively and provocative,' said movie star Bette Midler from the front row.

And indeed it was.

Golden era: Gaultier is an ardent fan of film, sitting on the Cannes judging panel this year - and his passion was played out in today's show Golden era: Gaultier is an ardent fan of film, sitting on the Cannes judging panel this year - and his passion was played out in today's show

Golden era: Gaultier is an ardent fan of film, sitting on the Cannes judging panel this year - and his passion was played out in today's show as a model's dress had images beamed onto it while movie scenes flashed in the background

Impressive: Gaultier played with video projection techniques and graphic prints

Impressive: Gaultier played with video projection techniques and graphic prints

Theatrical and flamboyant: A model in one of Gaultier's elaborate creations Theatrical and flamboyant: A model in one of Gaultier's elaborate creations Theatrical and flamboyant: A model in one of Gaultier's elaborate creations

Theatrical: The opulent fabrics and striking shapes evoked scenes from the silver screen

Gender roles: Top hats and suits spoke of matinee idols - but with an androgynous feel Model Karlie Kloss presents one of the French designer's creations Metallic tones were a running theme in the collection

Flamboyant: Androgynous suits, top hats and metallic tones were a running theme in the collection

Muse: Musician Pete Doherty, who Gaultier encountered when he saw a film he was starring in during Cannes French designer Jean Paul Gaultier takes a bow at the end of the show

Muse: Musician Pete Doherty, who Gaultier encountered when he saw a film he was starring in during Cannes, inspired French designer Jean Paul Gaultier takes a bow at the end of the show


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Arthurs is worse than your average fashion copy hack. This lead nails that distinction down.

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Andrej is the prettiest girl!

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Writing hacks need to learn how to construct a sentence. Creepy having femi men modeling the clothes. Women you're being replaced by she-shes. Are there really that many dolts running around this earth? I'm so impressed he had Amy Winehouse models running around in her look a like clothing or did it say he dressed Amy and had her running around months after her death. I'm so confused....

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PS: This old fruit needs to retire.

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Disgusting and obscene. What ever happened to class? If that is fashion, we are in serious trouble.....

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ridiculous. The fact that his clothing for women are being modelled by a man sums it up.

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I am so sick of nuts like this! He is not a fashion genius he is a wierdo.

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i love gooooooooooooooooooooollllllllldddd!

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Cannot believe in this day and age people are continuing to use real fur! Disgusting actions of an immoral society! Shame on you sir!

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Wow is the first two photos REALLY a man? Actually quite stunning :0

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