By Harry Ritchie
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Early evening and Iâm wandering along a spruced-up promenade, dodging the occasional roller-skater and young couples pushing buggies.
To my right, the softly lapping Mediterranean and a row of beachside restaurants. I ask myself if there can be any resort with a reputation more undeserved than that of Torremolinos.
Itâs famous for its crummy high-rise hotels, packed beaches, hordes of lagered-up lads, girls tottering in heels larger than their skirts, boys tomato-faced with sunstroke, bawling and brawling.
On the up: The beach at Torremolinos, which has been pleasantly spruced-up in recent years
But poor old Torre doesnât deserve it. Itâs firmly geared towards family fun: thereâs a large aquapark, funfairs by the promenade, toy shops, games arcades and British pubs that have fish-fingers on the menu.
The council has been doing its bit, too, extending and improving the Paseo Maritimo, and decorating squares and roundabouts with various bizarre sculptures.
Iâm staying at the Holiday Village just outside town; there are lots of pools, a childrenâs club, a couple of restaurants, a bar and a shop.
In fact, thereâs no pressing reason to leave the complex, especially for those with the all-inclusive packageâs red wristband.
Clean-up: The streets and alleyways of Torremolinos are more orderly than 20 years ago
When I first came here 20 years ago, Combat Alley was the centre of the action â" the top bit of the Calle San Miguel where you had to run the gauntlet of pubs, tables and drinkers spilling out into the street.
But Combat Alley has largely disappeared. It seems thereâs only one big disco left in the centre, and a couple of lively British pubs, such as the Bailey.
Itâs now a normal, pedestrianised street lined with shops and boutiques. One evening, I fell into conversation with two chaps in their late 30s who remembered the Nineties, when Torreâs clubbing scene was at its height.
They were on an all-inclusive package, but had left their hotel for this one night out of their week.
Inviting: A view of La Carihuela beach and promenade - gone are the hoardes of rowdy holidaymakers
âThat was the deal with the wives,â explained one with tattoos. âWe take the children to the crocodile park in the afternoon and we get the evening off.â
âWhat was the crocodile park like?â I asked. âFull of crocodiles.â
What were they planning to do with their hard-earned Brownie points? âFinish this beer,â said the tattooed one, âthen weâre off to a little Spanish place we found. The tapas is brilliant.â
âYouâre not going to paint the town red, then?â
âNah. Those days are behind us.â Seems the same applies to the increasingly respectable Torremolinos.
âHow was Torre?â a fellow guest asked me when I arrived back at the Hotel Holiday Village that night. âDid you give it large?â
âNot exactly,â I said. âBut I did have a very tasty frozen yoghurt.â
Travel Facts
First Choice (0871 200 7799, www.firstchoice.co.uk) offers seven-night, all-inclusive holidays at the 4Sun Holiday Village Costa del Sol, from £690 per adult, with the first child from £460, and the second from £485, including flights and transfers.
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